Cultural value: The ‘Bilbao effect’
Bilbao has pulled itself out of economic turmoil to become one of the world’s best destinations for art. And it’s all down to the Guggenheim museum.
WORDS: JOHN C SILCOX
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER RHIND
Art is often described as an agent of change but tangible examples are rare, which makes the story of Bilbao even more remarkable. In the early 1990s, this modest city in northern Spain’s Basque Country was in economic crisis caused by the collapse of its vital metal industry. Unemployment was high, drug abuse was rampant and the future looked bleak for its residents. A radical plan was needed and took shape in the form of a regeneration scheme, centred on the foundation of a new Guggenheim museum of modern and contemporary art.
More than 20 years later, Bilbao has evolved from a gritty, post-industrial hulk to a vibrant regional hub with a thriving service sector. The ‘Guggenheim effect’ has become shorthand for the power that cultural investment can have on social and economic growth, and an increasing number of cities around the world are using Bilbao as a model for their own development. Over the next two decades an estimated $250 billion will be spent on dozens of new cultural centres that will focus on museums – including Saadiyat Island, a complex off the coast of Abu Dhabi which will feature its own Guggenheim.
But simply spending a lot of money won’t bring about success says Juan Ignacio Vidarte, Director General of the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, who has been involved in the project from day one. ‘We had a very moderate budget to start off with,’ he explains. ‘Don’t forget, the city was in a deep recession, so we had to be smart. We couldn’t simply build a good museum, it had to be a world-class institution to help drive urban renewal. And the first thing we got right was our choice of architect.’
Frank Gehry’s design was hailed an architectural triumph when the museum opened its doors in October 1997, and Bilbao’s Guggenheim is now considered one of the most influential buildings in the world. Its innovative form is made up of thousands of intertwining arches and vaults that are impressive in pictures, but nothing prepares you for seeing it with your own eyes.
The apparently random curves of the titanium-clad exterior catch the light, which dances before your eyes constantly changing colour. Inside the optical illusion continues. These incredible shapes cast captivating shadows through glass panels onto the irregular whitewashed walls of the galleries that house exhibitions from leading international artists and local talent.
‘One of our aims was for the museum to be art in its own right,’ says Juan. ‘Our visitors spend as much time contemplating the building as they do the work within. ‘One of the most popular attractions is a permanent fixture called The Matter Of Time, which is a series of giant steel ellipses created by the American artist Richard Serra. It occupies a 130m-long gallery by itself.’
It’s diverse pieces like this that have made the museum a success from the start – it attracted more than a million visitors in its first year, three times more than expected, boosting the local economy immediately.
‘The project was finished on time and within budget, costing €133m,’ says Ibon Areso, former Mayor of Bilbao. ‘Within the first year it had contributed to a €144m surplus in the region’s GDP, and within five the city council had recouped its initial investment. Such return on investment is unheard of in a public project.’
Visitor numbers have been consistent since, with 2015 being its second best year. On top of generating vital income, the Guggenheim also provides jobs for more than 6,000 people, and has completely transformed Bilbao’s image – each year the city gets more than 27,000 unique mentions in the press because of the museum. Most importantly, the Guggenheim reinstated local pride that had been damaged by years of hardship.
This has been especially important to the city’s wider regeneration strategy, which is focused on creating a service-led economy. Bilbao has booming tourism industry and a global reputation for fine cuisine – the region has more than 40 Michelin-starred restaurants. One of these restaurants is Mina, a contemporary eaterie set in Bilbao’s old town run by chef Alvaro Garrido.
‘When I was a kid, fresh, locally sourced produce wasn’t praised,’ he says. ‘But now we have an exciting restaurant culture. Bilbao attracts a different type of visitor to the rest of Spain – people who like to soak up good wine, great food and culture rather than sunshine. For me, the most important type of art isn’t hanging in a gallery but is what’s put on a plate, and most of my customers would probably agree. However, I’m still glad that the Guggenheim is just around the corner – it gives guests something to do while waiting for dinner time.’